Pleated Mask --with filter pocket, nose wire, ear loops

NOTES:

.... a few of the numbers in the pics will be out of order due to mistakes when taking pics, but the step order will be correct  

.... contrasting thread and nose wire used so would show up well  

.... PICS ARE *ABOVE* EACH WRITTEN STEP

 

pic 1

CUT OUT THE FABRICS

… cut out 2 fabrics, each 8” x 8.5”
(use a template as above, or a large quilter's ruler, or a regular ruler)

pics 2 + 3

CREATE A FINISHED EDGE on each fabric where filter pocket edge will be  

… one at a time and wrong side up, fold each fabric over twice (1/4” each fold—1/2” in total) toward wrong side along the “bottom” (8”) edge, then iron
… OR as shown in pic 2, make a cardboard/etc template with a 1/2” line marked across bottom, then fold fabric over bottom of template and up to the line; remove template and fold fabric to creased line, then fold over again (final double-fold will be 1/4” tall)
(each fabric will now measure 8 x 8“) 

pic 3
… the pink fabric is shown in the process of being double-folded.(I find it easiest to do folds if using a template when I can fold from the top)
… green fabric has been double-folded, then turned 180º so fold is sitting at “bottom” (where filter pocket will end up)

pic 4

… sew along each double-fold (close to edge if possible) to hold folds in place and to keep filter pocket edges from raveling when filter is later moved in and out repeatedly (thread is black) 

pic 5 

JOIN 2 FABRICS
… place the 2 fabrics together, right to right, so finished edges for filter pocket are very even with each other (top and sides won't matter as much for evenness)
… pin tops of the 2 fabrics together, if desired

 pic 6

… sew the 2 fabrics together along their top 8” edge (opposite the filter pocket folds) using a 1/4” seam allowance 

 pic 7

ATTACH ELASTICS FOR EAR LOOPS
… with wrong side of one fabric facing up, pull the top fabric upward to open up the 2 joined fabrics (as shown in pic); finger press seam allowance toward “top” fabric (the fabric you want to be the front fabric, or the other fabric) to be best for nose wire later

… cut 2 elastics (e.g. if using 1/4” elastic, cut each 6.75” long for regular adult female fit, or 7” long for a sm/med adult male (other types of elastic may be stretchier or less stretchy tho so would then need longer or shorter elastics)

… clip or pin one end of each elastic to top end of the bottom fabric perpendicularly, and with the elastic's end being even with the fabric’s outer side and butting long edge of elastic under the finger-pressed seam 

Option 1: pin each elastic only at the top, then close fabrics again, leaving other elastic end loose but well out of the way so won’t accidentally stitch over while sewing 

Option 2: pin each elastic at top, then clip each elastic at the bottom as well; when sewing in next step, will need to keep making sure middle part of elastics don’t get sewn over, and fabrics will bunch up sooner so can be little harder to sew



MANY NUMBERS SHOWN IN PICS FROM HERE DOWN ARE WRONG IN SOME WAY. 
…Written steps below, however, will be in correct step-order.  I'll put the correct pics above each written step. 

....Will also number the steps from here down with an X-  plus the correct step number so will have a way to refer to those specific steps and pics later if needed. 

(X-X …pic has no number; taken at sewing machine)
(this is the fiddliest part)
… sew most of way down one short side (backstitching), making sure not to sew over the elastic inside the fabrics 

… when get near bottom edge, stop and leave needle in fabric; reach inside fabrics to grab other end of elastic, make sure elastic not twisted, then pin or clip other end of elastic perpendicularly as at top, but place elastic JUST ABOVE filter pocket's stitched line, before continuing to sew down the side (backstitch); can remove clip when about to sew that last bit and just hold all three together if want

… turn fabric/s over over so can sew down “right” side, then repeat stitching on that side

 (X-8 …was a 2nd/different “pic 7”)

… remove from machine
(pic shows bunched-up fabric unit after having sewn in the elastics; can see elastics through this thin fabric)

(X-9 … was pic 8)
TURN FABRIC
…reach inside wide opening at bottom of unit and turn fabric unit right side out 

…pull outward on both top elastics to pull out top corners as much as possible 

…run tip of a chopstick, etc, along the inside of the 3 sewn sides to push them out, then iron flat (not shown).

 

 (X-10 … was pic 9) 
ADD NOSE WIRE (or could add after finishing mask by putting the wire inside up through the narrowed filter pocket, then sewing around it); I used half of a flat "tin tie" for this one, shortened  

… iron a crease at center point of top of mask, then pin if desired to mark (or just measure and make a temporary mark)

…lay selected nose wire on top of mask; temporarily mark a (dotted) line at both ends of wire, and temporarily mark a solid line a little farther away from each dotted line which will be the sewing lines (to give the wire a little wiggle room)

(X-11 + X-12…was pics 11 + 10)

 

EITHER do the nose wire the following way (and way shown above), and especially if don’t have a zipper/cording foot like the one shown down in (X-12) which can sew right up along the edge of a bulky wire/cord:
(X-11 ...was pic 11)
... sew a PARTIAL tunnel for wire, left open at the right end temporarily, in the shape of a long L ( as shown), allowing a bit of extra space at both ends of tunnel so ends of ear wire won’t rub against fabric
… remove from machine and insert nose wire into tunnel, curving or bending wire a bit if necessary (btw, I often situate the wire so it’ll eventually lie closest to face side of the seam allowance, with any bent-over ends of wire facing away from face)
… sew tunnel closed at other short end (not shown here) along the 2nd purple line (dotted line in this pic, but oops it would have been the solid line in original pic before I took a replacement pic)

OR do nose wire as we did during FaceTime: 

…. put nose wire in place inside the fabrics; clip/pin the wire in place so won’t move
… sew around all 3 sides of the wire to create the tunnel
--a regular sewing foot can’t get really close to most nose wires though, so using one will create a roomier tunnel than first way and it’ll usually be hard to sew a really straight line; (X-12...was pic 10) shows a cording/piping foot sewing right up next to some cording--my regular foot is sitting alone in upper right

(X-13 …was first pic 12) 
PLEATS

... lay mask with its back side facing up, and filter pocket area at bottom (not shown)

... create 3 creased guidelines by first folding mask in half top to bottom, and ironing that fold

... open back out

(X-14 …was second pic 12)
… fold top edge down to the crease, then fold bottom edge up to the crease, which will create 3 “valley” folds across width of back side of mask 

… open back out

(X-15 …was pic 13)
…turn over so there will now see “mountain” crease/folds on front side of mask 

 (X-16 …was pic 14) 

... grab topmost mountain crease/fold with fingers of both hands, and pull the edge of crease/fold halfway down to next/middle crease (actually it gets pulled about 2/3 down, but the pinched part can’t easily be seen so easy not to count it); clip or pin both ends of that pleat

…then repeat to make other 2 creases/pleats 
…make sure pleats look reasonably even, or rearrange a bit; iron center of pleats at least on front side

 

(X-17 …was pic 15)
…the pic shows pleats but from one end; the pleats should not overlap (too hard to stitch through); will usually butt or almost butt

(X-18 …was pic 16)
FINISH FILTER POCKET

... fold mask in half to find center point; use a pin to mark center

... measure final opening for filter pocket (3” or 3.5” wide NO, pic is wrong...needs to be 4" wide or may not be able to insert and flatten a filter inside, especially if a shop towel filter--still trying to figure out if a narrower opening can be made to work if using a filter!) using a ruler or a template (white index card); mark each end of desired filter pocket opening with soap, disappearing pen, or pin (make lines long enough to see past sewing foot when sewing near that point)

(X-19…was pic 17) 

SEW PLEATS + BOTTOM 
...sew (backstitching) down right side of mask over pleats till just barely past original stitching for filter pocket; pivot, leaving needle in fabric
…then sew a short distance across bottom to marked line to narrow the filter pocket opening (backstitch); or could sew just-above filter pocket stitching line instead if want 
... repeat on other side, but may want to sew from the back side of mask because sewing down a left edge won't be easy, although you'll then be sewing up the pleats (slowly) rather than down, and may also need to mark one stopping line on back of mask at bottom for filter pocket opening
(also shows the FINISHED MASK from the front side) 

(X-20 …was pic “diagonal 17”)
FINISHED MASK from the back side (reversible except that pleats will go upward) 

NOTE that in X-18 thru X-20 I'm thinking the width of filter pocket opening needs to be changed to wider (at least for now).  Could probably even leave whole bottom open and fabric or shop towel filter pockets would stay in.